Steve's Genealogy Blog

San Martí­n Plaza with its Monumento del Libertador José de San Martí­n (Monument to the Liberator José de San Martí­n), national hero of Argentina and a leader of South America’s struggle for independence from Spain also is home to the Monumento a los Caí­dos de Malvinas, a monument to Argentine soldiers who lost their lives in the Fauklands War .  Historically, the location of San Martí­n Plaza served as a slave market, a military fort, and a bullring .  A replica of the Monument to General José de San Martí­n was given to the United States by Argentina and now stands in Washington, DC.

Monumento del Libertador José de San Martí­n

SOURCE: Â Monumento del Libertador José de San Martí­n (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 02 Jan 2011.

Detail of Monumento del Libertador José de San Martí­n

SOURCE: Â Detail of Monumento del Libertador José de San Martí­n (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 02 Jan 2011.

Monumento a los Caí­dos de Malvinas – 1

SOURCE: Â Monumento a los Caí­dos de Malvinas -1 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 02 Jan 2011.

Monumento a los Caí­dos de Malvinas – 2

SOURCE: Â Monumento a los Caí­dos de Malvinas – 2 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 02 Jan 2011.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

Of the photos I took of tombs in Cementerio de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires, there remain but three .  The first is a popular subject for photographers and provides an interesting story for visitors .  Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944-1970) was in Innsbruck, Austria on her honeymoon when she was killed by an avalanche that struck the hotel in which she was staying .  The grief of her father was enormous and he had a glass tomb constructed in front of which he placed a sculpture of Liliana in her wedding dress .  Later, when Liliana’s dog Sabíº died, a sculpture of the dog was placed on the tomb as well .  The second tomb belongs to Juan Facundo Quiroga (1788-1835) .  Facundo’s tomb is crowned by a sculpture of La Dolorosa by Tantardini which, incidentally, is actually a likeness of Facundo’s wife Dolores .  Facundo was an Argentine caudillo, a term that connotes the fact that he was more warlord than military leader .  Facundo died at the hands of assassins and, interestingly enough, is buried standing upright .  The third tomb is that of Bernardo de Irigoyen (1822-1906) and his father Fermen Yrigoyen (1795-1853) .  Bernardo de Irigoyen served many influential roles in Argentina’s political system including senator, governor of Buenos Aires, Minister of Foreign Affairs, and Minister of Internal Affairs .  He was instrumental in negotiating the borders of Argentina with its neighbors .  Of all the tombs in Recoleta, Irigoyen’s is the only one I actually peered into, snapping a photo of the interior as I did so.

Tomb of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944-1970)

SOURCE: Â Tomb of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944-1970) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Sculpture of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak

SOURCE: Â Sculpture of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944-1970) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Tomb of Juan Facundo Quiroga (1788-1835)

SOURCE:  Tomb of Juan Facundo Quiroga (1788-1835) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Tomb of Bernardo de Irigoyen (1822-1906)

SOURCE:  Tomb of Bernardo de Irigoyen (1822-1906) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Interior of the Tomb of Bernardo de Irigoyen (1822-1906)

SOURCE:  Interior of the Tomb of Bernardo de Irigoyen (1822-1906) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

Cementario de la Recoleta in Buenos Aires is as close as I’ve ever seen a cemetery meet the description of “City of the Dead” .  The cemetery includes wide, paved streets and narrow alleyways bordered by mausoleums that often look like miniature houses .  Here and there are green spaces punctuated by monuments and statues .  The first image below looks down one of the wide avenues .  Occasionally, one of the tombs includes interesting and sometimes frightening artwork, such as the skull seen on the tomb of the Family of Doctor Alexo Castex .  Unfortunately, I was not able to learn much about Doctor Castex, which frustrates me as a genealogist!  Finally, the tomb of Martin Rodriguez (1771-1845) shows a sculpture of this Argentine politician and soldier who participated in the resistance to the British Invasion of the Rí­o de la Plata during the Napoleonic Wars and the subsequent May Revolution .  Rodriguez later became governor of Buenos Aires.

City of the Dead

SOURCE:  City of the Dead (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Skull on the Tomb of Doctor Alexo Castex

SOURCE:  Skull on the Tomb of Doctor Alexo Castex (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Plaque on the Tomb of Doctor Alexo Castex

SOURCE: Â Plaque on the Tomb of Doctor Alexo Castex (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Tomb of Martin Rodriguez (1771-1845)

SOURCE: Â Tomb of Martin Rodriguez (1771-1845) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

Eva Perón (1919-1952) is buried in Cementerio de la Recoleta along with many other famous Argentines .  However, her body was not always laid to rest there . Â After she died on 26 Jul 1952, her embalmed body was displayed in her former office in the CGT Building (Building of the General Confederation of Labor), awaiting the construction of a permanent memorial .  Unfortunately, her husband, President Juan Perón, was driven out of office in a military coup in 1955, and the new authorities removed Evita’s body to an unknown location .  Sixteen years later, in 1971, the military revealed that Evita’s body had been buried in a crypt in Milan, Italy under the name Marí­a Maggi .  In 1971, the body was exhumed and flown to the Perón home in Spain .  Evita’s body was kept in Spain until after Juan Perón’s death and was then returned to Argentina so that the bodies of Juan and Eva Perón could be displayed together .  Eventually, Evita’s body was interred in the Duarte Family Tomb in Recoleta Cemetery .  To ensure that Evita’s body would be secure, it was buried two levels underground .  Shown below are two views of the tomb and details of three of the plaques that adorn the tomb.

Duarte Family Tomb – 1

SOURCE:  Duarte Family Tomb – 1 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Duarte Family Tomb – 2

SOURCE:  Duarte Family Tomb – 2 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

“Do Not Cry…”

SOURCE: Â “Do Not Cry…” (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

“Forever in the Heart…”

SOURCE: Â “Forever in the Heart…” (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

“Path of Social Justice…”

SOURCE: Â “Path of Social Justice…” (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

In Buenos Aires there is a saying that “It’s cheaper to live extravagantly all your life than to be buried in Recoleta.”  Cementerio de la Recoleta is the final resting place for the wealthiest and most prestigious of Argentina’s citizens .  The cemetery is, indeed, a city of the dead .  Wide streets and narrow passages crisscross through Recoleta Cemetery where it seems that everyone is buried in a mausoleum to spend eternity in a house of granite .  Among the rich and famous buried here are Bartolomé Mitre (1821-1906), a soldier, journalist, and the sixth president of Argentina .  Mitre has been described as one of the Argentina’s best writers and is well known for chronicling South America’s wars of independence .  Marco Avellaneda (1813-1841) was the son of a prominent Argentine politician .  He, himself, became governor of the Province of Tucumí¡n .  He was put to death by the dictator Rosas who displayed Avellaneda’s head on a pike in the Plaza of Tucumí¡n .  Valentine Alsina (1802-1869) was an Argentine lawyer and politician .  He served as governor of Buenos Aires and as a member of the Argentine senate.

Entrance to Cementerio de la Recoleta

SOURCE:  Entrance to Cementerio de la Recoleta (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Tomb of Bartolomé Mitre (1821-1906)

SOURCE: Â Tomb of Bartolomé Mitre (1821-1906) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Tomb of Marco Avellaneda (1813-1841)

SOURCE: Â Tomb of Marco Avellaneda (1813-1841) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Tomb of Valentin Alsina (1802-1869)

SOURCE: Â Tomb of Valentin Alsina (1802-1869) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

By the time I reached Jardí­n Japonés (the Japanese Garden) in the Palermo nieghborhood of Buenos Aires, it was closed for the day .  Nonetheless, I snapped some photos through the fence .  Perhaps I’ll be able to visit the Japonese Garden on some future visit.

Jardí­n Japonés – Entrance

SOURCE:  Jardí­n Japonés – Entrance (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Jardí­n Japonés – Interior 1

SOURCE:  Jardí­n Japonés - Interior 1 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Jardí­n Japonés – Interior 2

SOURCE:  Jardí­n Japonés - Interior 2 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Jardí­n Japonés – Interior 3

SOURCE:  Jardí­n Japonés – Interior 3 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

A stroll through the Recoleta and Palermo neighborhoods in Buenos Aires reveals many delights, too many to fully appreciate in a single day .  The Facultad de Ingenierí­a (Engineering School) is described by my travel guide as a “decrepit neo-Gothic” building .  With scraggly plants sprouting high on its crumbling structure, the decaying appearance still has a certain charm and allure .  The postcard-perfect Floralis Genérica with its aluminum and steel petals that open with the day and close at night is a popular sight in the Plaza Naciones Unidas (United Nations Plaza) .  Further along in Plaza Irí¡n (Iran Plaza) is La Columna del Templo Persa (Column of the Persian Temple), in impressive monument, indeed.

Facultad de Ingenierí­a – 1

SOURCE:  Facultad de Ingenierí­a – 1 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Facultad de Ingenierí­a – 2

SOURCE:  Facultad de Ingenierí­a - 2 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Floralis Genérica

SOURCE: Â Floralis Genérica (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

La Columna del Templo Persa

SOURCE: Â La Columna del Templo Persa (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

La Columna del Templo Persa – Detail

SOURCE: Â La Columna del Templo Persa – Detail (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 31 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

While sightseeing in Buenos Aires, Argentina, I spotted this rower in the diques .  I took several pictures and thought they would make an interesting photo essay.

The Rower – 1

SOURCE:  The Rower – 1 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

The Rower – 2

SOURCE:  The Rower - 2 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

The Rower – 3

SOURCE:  The Rower - 3 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

The Rower – 4

SOURCE:  The Rower - 4 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

The Rower – 5

SOURCE:  The Rower - 5 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

The Rower – 6

SOURCE:  The Rower - 6 (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

Adjacent to the Plaza de Mayo stands the Casa Rosada (Pink House), the seat of the executive branch of Argentina’s federal government .  The structure was completed in 1898 after the State House and Central Post Office were connected with an Italianate archway .  The balcony where Evita Perón addressed the public can be seen in the first view below .  Not far from Casa Rosada stands a monument to Christopher Columbus which was constructed in Italy, disassembled, and reassembled in Buenos Aires .  The base of the monument included figures representing Civilization, Science, Genius and the Ocean .  East of Casa Rosada stands the Edificio Libertador (Liberator Building) completed in 1938 and housing the Ministerio de Defensa (Defense Ministry) .  And yes, this is still Christmastime and even the Defense Ministry displays a nativity scene . 

The Casa Rosada (Pink House)

SOURCE:  The Casa Rosada (Pink House) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Palm Tree, Flag of Argentina, and Casa Rosada

SOURCE:  Palm Tree, Flag of Argentina, and Casa Rosada (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Monument to Christopher Columbus

SOURCE:  Monument to Christopher Columbus (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Edificio Libertador (Liberator Building)

SOURCE: Â Edificio Libertador (Liberator Building) (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Nativity Scene at the Defense Ministry

SOURCE: Â Nativity Scene at the Defense Ministry (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2011 by Stephen J. Danko

I arrived in Buenos Aires, Argentina on December 30 in plenty of time to celebrate the coming of the New Year .  On my first day, I explored the Plaza de Mayo and the Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires (Metropolitan Cathedral of Buenos Aires) .  Plaza de Mayo is named for the date when Argentina declared its independence from Spain, May 25, 1810 .  The cathedral was built on the site of the original colonial church and was completed in 1827 .  The bas relief sculptures in the triangular pediment at the top of the cathedral shows the reunion of Joseph with his brothers and his father Jacob.

Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires

SOURCE:  Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Inside the cathedral are many side chapels, including one dedicated to Nuestra Seí±ora de La Paz (Our Lady of Peace).

Chapel of Nuestra Seí±ora de La Paz

SOURCE:  Chapel of Nuestra Seí±ora de La Paz (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Of great importance to the people of Argentina is the mausoleum of General José de San Martin .  San Martin is the national hero of Argentina and one of the liberators of Spanish South America .  Born in Argentina in 1777 or 1778, he died in France in 1850 . Â  His remains were interred in the cathedral in 1880 .  The mausoleum is also the final resting place for General  Juan Gregorio de las Heras, General Tomí¡s Guido, and the Unknown Soldier of the Independence .  The three statues surrounding the mausoleum represent Argentina, Peru, and Chile.

Mausoleum of General José de San Martin

SOURCE:  Mausoleum of General José de San Martin (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Since this was still Christmastime, the cathedral displayed a simple, but beautiful nativity scene.

Nativity Scene in Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires

SOURCE:  Nativity Scene in Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

In 1907, the floor of the cathedral was covered with Venetian style mosaics designed by Carlo Morra .  In recent years, the mosaics were completely restored.

Floor Mosaics in Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires

SOURCE:  Floor Mosaics in Catedral Metropolitana d Buenos Aires (Buenos Aires, Argentina), photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 30 Dec 2010.

Copyright © 2010 by Stephen J. Danko