The Sculptures of Saxon Garden, Warsaw (Part 1)

The Saxon Garden, located adjacent to Pilsudski Square in Warsaw, was among the first public gardens in the world. The garden was originally created in the 17th century and opened to the public in 1727.

One of the most striking features of Saxon Garden is its collection of sandstone sculptures. Originally, there were 70 sculptures in the park. Many of these sculptures were removed from Saxon Garden at around the time of the Kosciusko Uprising in 1794, and sent to the Summer Garden in St. Petersburg. In 1797, only 37 sculptures remained. Today, only 20 of the sculptures survive.

Most of the statues bear inscriptions, describing the subject of the sculptures. Four of these are Astronomia (Astronomy), Historja (History), Malarstwo (Painting), and Medycyna (Medicine). Three of these names are apparently incorrect, the result of maintainence throughout the lifetime of these sculptures. Astronomia should be Astrologia (Astrology) and Historja should be Rozumność (Rationality). Medycyna is probably incorrect as well.

Astronomia

Astronomia

SOURCE: Astronomia (Saxon Garden, Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Historia

Historja

SOURCE: Historja (Saxon Garden, Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Malarstrwo

Malarstrwo

SOURCE: Malarstwa (Saxon Garden, Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Medycyna

Medycyna

SOURCE: Medycyna (Saxon Garden, Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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Monuments to the Famous in Warsaw

The city of Warsaw is home to a large number of monuments to famous Poles. A quick walk along Krakowskie Przedmieście allows the visitor to view monuments to Adam Mickiewicz, Bolesław Prus, and Stefan Cardinal Wyszyński, among others.

Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is regarded as Poland’s greatest romanic poet. His longest poem and his masterpiece was entitled Pan Tadeusz. He referred to Lithuania as his ‘fatherland’ and is considered there to be a Lithuanian himself.

Monument to Adam Mickiewicz

Monument to Adam Mickiewicz

SOURCE: Monument to Adam Mickiewicz (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Bolesław Prus, the pen name of Aleksander Głowacki (1847-1912), is one of Poland’s most noted novelists. His best known works include The Doll and Pharaoh. He took his pen name ‘Prus’ from the name of his family’s coat of arms.

Monument to Bolesław Prus

Monument to Bolesław Prus

SOURCE: Monument to Bolesław Prus (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Stefan Cardinal Wyszyński (1901-1981) was the Primate of Poland. During communist times, Cardinal Wyszyński negotiated with the communist authorities to allow the Roman Catholic Church to function in Poland. In addition, Cardinal Wyszyński helped establish separation of church and state.

Monument to Stefan Cardinal Wyszyzski

Monument to Stefan Cardinal Wyszyński

SOURCE: Monument to Stefan Cardinal Wyszyński (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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Castle Square (Plac Zamkowy) in Warsaw

At the entrance to the Old Town in Warsaw is Castle Square (Plac Zamkowy) . Adjacent to Castle Square is the Royal Castle, the official residence of the Polish kings from the 16th Century until the end of the 19th Century.

In Castle Square itself stands the impressive Zygmunt’s Column, a monument and national landmark commemorating King Zygmunt III Waza who moved Poland’s capital from Krakow to Warsaw in 1596. Atop the column is a statue of King Zygmunt III Waza, wielding a sword and a cross.

Zigmunt's Column

Zygmunt's Column

SOURCE: Zygmunt’s Column (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

King Zygmunt III WazaKing Zygmunt III Waza

King Zygmunt III Waza

SOURCE: Statue of King Zygmunt III Waza (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

The Royal Castle

The Royal Castle

SOURCE: The Royal Castle (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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The Old Town Marketplace in Warsaw (Rynek Starego Miasta)

One of the most popular tourist destinations in Warsaw is the Old Town Marketplace (Rynek Starego Miasta). Destroyed by the Nazis during World War II, this historical location was rebuilt according to the original plans using, as much as possible, the original bricks.

The Warsaw Mermaid

The Warsaw Mermaid

SOURCE: The Warsaw Mermaid (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Warsaw Old Town Marketplace North

Warsaw Old Town Marketplace North

SOURCE: Warsaw Old Town Marketplace North (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Warsaw Old Town Marketplace East

Warsaw Old Town Marketplace East

SOURCE: Warsaw Old Town Marketplace East (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

The Old Town marketplace is filled with restaurants and shops, and many of the surrounding streets are likewise lined with restaurant and shops. The Archives of Historical Documents is also located within the Old Town, though not in the marketplace itself.

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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The Central Archives of Historical Documents in Warsaw

Much of my time in Warsaw was spent in the Central Archives of Historical Documents (AGAD).

AGAD (Warsaw)

AGAD-Warsaw

SOURCE: AGAD-Warsaw (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2008.

Entrance to AGAD

Entrance to AGAD

SOURCE: Entrance to AGAD (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 28 Sep 2009.

Archiwum Główne Akt Dawnych w Warszawie (The Central Archives of Historical Records in Warsaw) is located at ulica Długa 7, PL 00-263 Warsaw and includes:

  • AGAD Division 1: Records prior to 1795
  • AGAD Division 2: Records from 1795-1918
  • AGAD Division 3: Genealogy Archives and Private Collections
  • AGAD Division 4: Map Collections
  • AGAD Division 5: Information, Records, and Public Resources

For the most part, I researched Polish Court Records from Ciechanów, located in Division 1. These records included land and property transactions, dowrys, and disputes.

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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W Barze Mlecznym (In the Milk Bar)

During this past week, I had lunch in a milk bar (bar mleczny). I don’t remember whether or not I had had a meal in a milk bar during my previous trip to Poland (at that time, I didn’t even know that milk bars existed, much less what they were), but my experiences in the Bar Under the Barbikan (Bar Pod Barbakanem) in Warsaw will be ones to remember.

Steve Danko at the Barbikan Milk Bar

Steve Danko at the Bar Pod Barbikanem

SOURCE: Steve Danko at the Bar Pod Barbakanem (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Christa Shukaitis for Stephen J. Danko on 02 Oct 2009.

When I studied Polish at the Polish Club in San Francisco, one of the dialogs in our textbook was set in a milk bar. At that time, I really didn’t understand what made a milk bar a milk bar.

Actually going to a milk bar answered all my questions. The establishment a no-frills eatery. Customers order from a menu on the wall, pay at the register, and hand the receipt through the service window to a woman in the kitchen. The food is passed to the customer back through the same window. Customers bus their own tables, returning the dishes to a second service window to the kitchen. Just don’t get confused and return the dirty dishes to the wrong window. If you do, a woman who looks a lot like your Great Aunt Sophie will scold you severely.

Milk Bar Menu

The Milk Bar Menu

SOURCE: The Milk Bar Menu (Warsaw, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 02 Oct 2009.

The choices on the menu consist of basic, Polish home-cooking. On my first visit, I ordered a kotlet schabowy (pork chop), ziemniaki (potatoes), and a Coca Cola Light. Everything in ala carte. The pork chop was really cooked to perfection and the potatoes were mashed so they were delightfully lumpy.

On my second visit, I tried to order żurek (sour soup) but was told “Nie, dzisiaj nie ma żurek (No, there isn’t any żurek today)” and I settled for zupa pieczarkowa (mushroom soup) instead. I was once again surprised at how good the food was. The cook prepared a ladle-full of noodles in a bowl, and then filled the bowl with mushroom soup. This wasn’t any old homogenized mushroom soup, but instead consisted of lots and lots of mushroom pieces swimming around in a delicious broth.

If the good food weren’t enough, take a look at the prices! In US dollars, the pork chop was less than $3.00, the potatoes were about $0.70, and the mushroom soup (a full meal by itself) was just over $1.00.

When asked if I could take a photo inside the establishment, the proprietor was at first reluctant, but finally allowed me to take a picture of just the menu. I guess she didn’t want to take the chance that her trade secrets might be divulged in the photograph.

Milk bars, once a common sight in Poland, are becoming more and more rare. In Warsaw, I’m told, there are just two milk bars left.

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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Kościół Mariacki

I took the train to Kraków today, met with my Dańko cousins who live there, and then traveled back to Warsaw.

It’s late, so just a quick post today, a photo of the Kościół Mariacki (St. Mary’s Basilica).

Kościół Mariacki

Kościół Mariacki

 SOURCE: Kościół Mariacki (Kraków, Poland). Photographed by Stephen J. Danko on 01 Oct 2009.

While my cousins and I were enjoying the day together in one of the outdoor cafes near the church, I heard the hejnał played twice. I’ve been to Kraków and the Rynek Krakowski (Kraków Market Square) before, but it was quite a different and wonderful experience to be there with my cousins who live in the city!

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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To Krakow

It’s been a very busy day.

I spent most of the day (9 AM to 7 PM) at the Archives. Then, my cousin Christa and I had dinner, followed few hours exchanging genealogy information.

Right now, it’s just after midnight in Warsaw and I need to get some sleep. Tomorrow morning I’m taking the train to Krakow to visit my cousin Piotr and his family. I’ll be back in Warsaw by 11 PM tomorrow night.

Friday will be my last full day in Poland, and that looks to be a busy day, too! Whew! When I get home, I’ll need a vacation from my vacation!

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko 

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Mogę mówić po Polsku!

I can speak Polish!

Today I held my first conversations completely in Polish. The converations weren’t much at all, but still I did not resort to English.

The first conversation was in a taxi from the archives to the hotel. Neither the driver nor I said much. I just told him “Hotel Marriott”. He repeated the destination and drove me there. Upon arrival he told me the price of the fare. I paid and left the taxi, offering him a “Dziekuję” (Thank-you) as I left.

I then stopped by a flower stand to pick up some roses for my cousin Kasia. The salesperson showed me her wares, picking one bunch of flowers, then another, extolling the virtues of each. I just kept saying, “Nie” (No). To be honest, I didn’t understand most of what she was saying, but I got the general idea.

Finally she showed me a bunch of roses, the outer petals white, the heart of each rose glowing with a delicate pink color. I asked, “Ile kostuje?” (“How much does it cost?”) and the vendor clearly stated the price. If there’s one thing I’m good at in Polish, it’s numbers. I deal with numbers in every Polish document I translate: dates, ages, house numbers, numbers of banns of marriage, etc. I agreed to the price simply by saying “Dobrze” (OK). I gave the salesperson the correct amount of money and told her “Dziękuję” (Thank you).

I learned one hint about flowers last night at dinner with my cousin Christa and her cousin Adam. An odd number of flowers is suitable for the living and an even number is appropriate for the deceased. I’m glad I learned this tip, because Adam looked truly horrified when I told him it was common in the United States to give a spouse or lover a dozen or half-dozen roses! Fortunately, the vendors in the flower stalls had conveniently packaged many of the bunches of flowers in groups of five.

I also met several cousins today for the first time: Wojciech (related to my Niedziałkowski ancestors) and Kasia and family (related to my Danko ancestors).

I still have other relatives to meet later this week but, unfortunately, my time in Poland seems to be passing by too quickly!

One thing that I kind of got a kick out of while writing this post was that I noticed that, here in Warsaw, Google automatically connects me to Google.pl, the Polish version of the Google home page!

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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A Blanket, a Cat, and a Form

I spent most of the day today at the Polish State Archives (AGAD) in Warsaw with my cousin Christa. For the most part, we searched through books of Polish Court Records and did, indeed, find records of our families. I did sneak out to take some photos, though.

We also met up with Christa’s friend Adam for supper and, during dessert, we got into a discussion that started to sound like an Abbott and Costello routine.

Steve: “Once I made the mistake of asking for ‘jeszcze jeden kot’ (another cat) instead of ‘jeszcze jeden koc’ (another blanket).”

Adam: “Why would you say ‘blankiet’? Blankiet is a blank piece of paper, a blank form.”

Christa: “No a blanket is something you pull over you to keep warm.”

Steve: “My grand aunt Stefania’s will was written in Polish, but used the word ‘blenkiet’ rather than ‘koc’.”

Christa: “So, what is ‘blanket’ in Polish?”

Adam: “‘Blankiet’ is Polish for a blank form.”

Steve: “No, the word you want is ‘blanket’, not ‘blankiet’.

Christa: “We just always called blankets, blankets.”

OK, the conversation didn’t proceed exactly like that, but you get the idea. And, would you believe we got into this discussion after Christa brought us to a stationery store to buy a pillow?

Copyright © 2009 by Stephen J. Danko

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