Category Archives: Daily Journal

There are reportedly over 200 species of birds in Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (South Waterfront Ecological Reserve), Buenos Aires. I only saw four species, but I was there at the hottest part of the day, probably not the best time for bird watching. Moreover, I was moving fairly quickly through the park, keeping to the established paths. Nonetheless, I was able to photograph Nandayus nenday (Black Hooded Parakeet), Mimus saturninus (Chalk-browed Mockingbird), Zenaida auriculata (Eared Dove), and Polioptila dumicola (Masked Gnatcatcher). Technically, I did not observe the Black Hooded Parakeet in the Reserve itself, but I did see a group of them not far to the west of the Reserve. I had previously seen the Chalk-browed Mockingbird in Brazil, and so I was already familiar with this species. The Eared Dove is closely related to the North American Mourning Dove. The Masked Gnatcatchers I saw were an active pair, and it was darn inconsiderate of them not to stay put in an accessible location so I could get a better photo! Continue reading →

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (South Waterfront Ecological Reserve) in the Puerto Madero neighborhood of Buenos Aires is something of a miracle. Between 1976 and 1983, public access to the Buenos Aires waterfront was restricted. Construction debris and sediments dredged from the Rio de la Plata accumulated in the south waterfront and, while construction in the area was stalled, native flora and fauna took advantage of the situation. This marshy area developed naturally into what became Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur in 1986. Today, the area is a wonderful park, full of life, with native plants and animals including over 200 species of birds. An effort is made to remove non-native species of plants where possible. Entering the reserve, one can see the stark contrast between the natural landscape and new high-rise construction in Buenos Aires. Native flowering trees include Erythrina crista-galli (cockspur coral tree, also known as Ceibo or Seí­bo in Spanish, Corticeira in Portuguese) and Jacaranda mimosifolia (Jacaranda). The Ceibo flower is the national flower of Argentina. The Jacarada are common throughout Buenos Aires, but I was lucky in catching a shot of a few flowers because the flowering season for Jacaranda was pretty much over. Continue reading →

At the west end of Avenida de Mayo, in front of the Palacio del Congreso, lies the Plaza del Congreso. Within the Plaza is Monumento a los Dos Congresos (Monument of the Two Congresses) honoring the Congress of 1810 in Buenos Aires and the Congress of 1816 in Tucumí¡n which lead to the independence of Argentina. Fountains and sculptures fill the Plaza and a temporary nativity scene of colossal scale stands at the east end (this was, after all, just after Christmas. Continue reading →

The Palacio del Congreso (the Congressional Palace), the seat of the legislative branch of Argentina’s national government is located at one end of Avenida de Mayo in Buenos Aires. At the other end of Avenida de Mayo stands Casa Rosada, the seat of Argentina’s executive branch. The Palacio del Congreso was modeled after the Capitol Building in Washington, DC, was built between 1898 and 1906. Argentina’s legislative branch consists of the Senate with 72 members (3 from each province) and the Chamber of Deputies with 256 members (distributed in proportion to the population of each province). Continue reading →

Barrio Norte in Buenos Aires, located on the southern end of the Recoleta Neighborhood, is a residential area with plenty of shopping and dining to boot. One destination store in Barrio Norte is the El Ateno Grand Splendid Bookstore, housed in the former Teatro Gran Splendid, built in 1919. After its life as a theater for both live performances and the first motion pictures with sound, the structure gained a new life as home to the El Ateno Bookstores flagship store. Former seating areas on the main floor and balconies are now bookshelves, box seats serve as reading areas, and the stage is now a cafe. Barely south of Barrio Norte is the Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes (The Water Company Palace), built in 1877 as a water pumping station. Who would guess that this impressive building serves so humble a purpose? The exterior is covered by 300,000 glazed tiles from the British ceramics manufacturer Royal Doulton. Continue reading →

The Caminito, in addition to being a popular tourist hangout in the Boca Neighborhood of Buenos Aires, also serves as a street museum for public art. Some of the many works of art displayed on the walls and in the streets are Bombero Voluntario (Volunteer Firefighter) by Ernesto Scaglia, La Sirga (The Tow) by Julio B. Vergottini, La Canción (The Song) by Julio B. Vergottini, Guardia Vieja Tango (Old Guard – Tango) by Israel Hoffman, and Herrero Boquense (Boca Blacksmith) by Marisa Balmaseda Krause. Continue reading →

La Boca is probably the most blue-collar of all the neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, but it includes El Caminito, a popular spot for tourists due to the colorful buildings and its abundance of street vendors and street performers. The trademark colors on the buildings began when, after painting the barges on the nearby river, workers used leftover paint on their own houses. The walls of El Caminito are decorated with works of art, one of which, called “Esperando La Barca” (Waiting for the Boat) held special interest for me since it reminded me of my immigrant ancestors. Estadio Alberto J. Armando, the football (soccer) stadium owned by the Boca Juniors football club is also located in La Boca. Because of its shape, the stadium is better known as La Bombonera (the Chocolate Box). Continue reading →

The Retiro Neighborhood is one of most exclusive neighborhoods of Buenos Aires but, originally, the area was a country retreat (retiro) for Spanish governor Augustí­n de Robles. San Martí­n Plaza, which I described previously, is in the Retiro Neighborhood. Near the Plaza stands Palacio San Martí­n, built for Mercedes Castellanos de Anchorena and completed in 1909. Palacio San Martí­n is currently used for ceremonial purposes by the Ministry of Foreign Relations. Basí­lica Santí­simo Sacramento, also nearby, was built by the Anchorena family in 1916. The last apartment occupied by Argentine writer and poet Jorge Luis Borges is here in Retiro, with a plaque commemorating him prominently displayed on the wall of the building. After exploring the Retiro Neighborhood, I stopped in a beautiful old church, the name of which I didn’t record. Nonetheless, the interior of this charming neighborhood church is a vivid memory for me. Continue reading →

San Martí­n Plaza with its monument to General José de San Martin, national hero of Argentina and a leader of South America’s struggle for independence from Spain also is home to the Monumento a los Caí­dos de Malvinas, a monument to Argentine soldiers who lost their lives in the Fauklands War. Historically, the location of San Martí­n Plaza served as a slave market, a military fort, and a bullring. A replica of the monument to General José de San Martin was given to the United States by Argentina and now stands in Washington, DC. Continue reading →

Of the photos I took of tombs in Cementerio de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires, there remain but three. The first is a popular subject for photographers and provides an interesting story for visitors. Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944-1970) was in Innsbruck, Austria on her honeymoon when she was killed by an avalanche that struck the hotel in which she was staying. The grief of her father was enormous and he had a glass tomb constructed in front of which he placed a sculpture of Liliana in her wedding dress. Later, when Liliana’s dog Sabíº died, a sculpture of the dog was placed on the tomb as well. The second tomb belongs to Juan Facundo Quiroga (1788-1835). Facundo’s tomb is crowned by a sculpture of La Dolorosa by Tantardini which, incidentally, is actually a likeness of Facundo’s wife. Facundo was an Argentine caudillo, a term that connotes the fact that he was more warlord than military leader. Facundo died at the hands of assassins and, interestingly enough, is buried standing upright. The third tomb is that of Bernardo de Irigoyen (1822-1906) and his father Fermen Yrigoyen (1795-1853). Bernardo de Irigoyen served many influential roles in Argentina’s political system including senator, governor of Buenos Aires, Minister of Foreign Affairs, and Minister of Internal Affairs. He was instrumental in negotiating the borders of Argentina with its neighbors. Of all the tombs in Recoleta, Irigoyen’s is the only one I actually peered into, snapping a photo of the interior as I did so. Continue reading →